Monday, March 24, 2014

Monkey See, Monkey Attack!


Life as I know it changed on the morning of Wednesday, March 19.



The day began beautifully, with clear skies and a sunny warmth that had been missing for months.  On the ramp down to the main road, I noticed a rhododendron tree that appeared to have blossomed just overnight.  I walked slowly and watched, out of the corner of my eyes, as monkeys chomped at the leafy goodness.  Reaching the main road with no difficulty, I picked up my pace until I reached a briskness that matched the fecundity of my outer surroundings and the optimism of my inner soul.  Nothing could go wrong.

Until it did. 

As I propelled myself toward another inevitably productive day at school, my blissful state was unexpectedly interrupted by the—I don’t know how else to put it—hooting and huffing of wild animals.  Could it be the same monkeys that were joyously ingesting leaves, just minutes before?  Surely not.  Could it be rabid dogs, confused and disgruntled leopards, or cacophonous exotic birds?  It was truly a day in which anything was possible.

Now, what happened next needs to be recorded for the good of the Woodstock community, as history repeats itself unless it is dutifully recorded, distributed, and analyzed.  At the same time, we all know that perspective is truly what poises pen over paper... or hands over keys, as the case may be.  So let me be clear:  this is my perspective of 3/19.  I share my perspective to convey my personal truth.  I share my perspective to restore my personal dignity.  I share my perspective to combat simplified stories that could dirty and destroy my personal honor.

After all, Woodstock is a small community where gossip has the tendency to flourish.  It is the nature of the beast.  Similarly, Mussoorie is a small city where monkeys have the tendency to attack.  It is the nature of the beast.  And when these two beasts combine, there is no beauty… only terror, shame, and soiled underpants.  And I intend to clean this mess up.

Until 3/19, I had (as far as I know) successfully avoided that first beast—being the subject of Woodstock gossip.  Some could say I’m boring, sharing my bed with only a book or a cat (or even both, if I’m feeling particularly risqué), but I’d like to reframe my gentle lifestyle under the umbrella term of responsible.  Until 3/19, I had also successfully avoided that second beast—being the victim of Woodstock monkeys.  Some could say I’m manly, since monkeys are more frightened by males than females, but I’d like to reframe that fragile peace as proof of monkeys’ respect for humanity.

A vision of respectability.

But enough—I have sidestepped the heart of the matter, which is the sheer heartlessness of the monkeys.  They do not show respect.  They do not show mercy.  They hoot and huff and blow houses down, metaphorically, and then they literally chase people down roads on beautiful spring mornings for cheap thrills.  But I discovered this only as my neighbor hurtled down the road, desperately shouting my name, with a monkey galloping behind her. 

And did I show mercy? 

This is where perspectives veer and controversial tales are shaped.  This is where the beasts intertwine and my mythical archetype—monster or hero?—rises from the dust of despair kicked up by my neighbor’s feet.  According to Friday morning’s teatime talk, popular opinion places me squarely in the ‘monster’ category via an embarrassingly abridged version of that doomed morning goes something like this:

I saw the monkey and ran away.

As a wise sage once sang, "this shit is bananas."  Now, I do not deny that I saw the monkey and I do not deny that I ran, but I do wish to elaborate on the circumstances surrounding this gutless gut-instinct.  Within a matter of moments, I cycled through myriad feelings, decisions, and assumptions.  The following three false assumptions are of particular importance.  I pair them with the first few steps in the hero’s journey, but I don’t want to be a hero; I just want to justify the nature of my actions… and inaction... and show that I merely followed the patterns set in place by destiny.

1)     I thought the monkey was a dog: “Call to Adventure”

I may have been thrown off by the fact that I’d never seen a monkey run before.  I’d seen scampering monkeys, sure, and perhaps loping ones—but running?  It was kind of like seeing Santa Claus run, in that it was unexpected, but it was also not at all like seeing Santa Claus run, in that one is chubby and imaginary while the other is sinewy and horrifically real. 

So, why is this false assumption of particular importance?  Because I believe it is representative of the unexpected nature of the broader event.  When I walk to school, usually I’m thinking about the number of apples that will be shyly placed on my desk while I’m out to lunch… or the cheers that will be raised when I assign a particularly challenging essay… or the feeling that I will have changed lives in a concrete and measurable way by the end of the day.  Mortal danger is not usually on my mental checklist.  But I will be checking that list twice from now on.   

2)      I thought I was being warned about the chase: “Refusal of the Call”

After hearing my name, seeing the figures drawing nearer, and standing stupidly for a few seconds, I made the selfish—yet subconscious—determination that (lightbulb!) the cry was not a cry for help, but a cry of warning!  But of course!  She wants me to run, too!  With every step, though, I realized I was running further away from the reality of the situation.  THUD- this, THUD- is, THUD- stupid, THUD- turn, THUD- around!

That’s it.  It took no more than five running steps to realize the error of my ways.  Five steps in order for humane reasoning to overcome animal instinct.  Can I not use the hallowed 5-Second Rule in my defense?  Am I not more easily forgiven than food?  Let us separate the wheat from the chaff!  Let the cream rise to the top!  

When I turned around to face my fate, the moment of truth had already passed.  My neighbor, who had previously been running like the wind, crumpled at my feet because her own foot was injured.  The monkey, satiated by fear and pain, loped/scampered away.



3)      I thought her ankle was destroyed: “Supernatural Aid”

At the time, amputation seemed like a legitimate option.  Luckily, I knew just what to do to obtain help: look confused, hopeless, and scared.  No one else could have done it better.  That trademark expression, paired with a quick flick of the wrist, almost immediately summoned a car from the swirling black oblivion of despair.  The nameless good Samaritan dropped us at the front gate of the school, where I proceeded to summon professional expertise from the health center.  Then I discarded the confused/hopeless/scared face, put on my teacher face, and taught The Merchant of Venice like a boss.  The following lines gave me pause, for what is the degree of separation between humans and our evolutionary counterparts?

If you prick us, do we not bleed?  If you tickle us, do we not laugh?  If you poison us, do we not die?  And if you wrong us, shall we not revenge?

If they chase us, do we not run?  If we chase them back, are we not avenged?

The school devised a systematic way to 'chase' the monkeys back, called the Monkey Relocation Programme (spelled the British way, so you know they mean business… monkey business).  The main tenet of the Monkey Relocation Programme was fairly basic: remove the monkeys.  Fifty of the bloodthirsty creatures were removed from Mussoorie this past winter, but their reign of terror has clearly not abated.  Has our vigilante justice begun a blood feud that will last for generations untold?  I fear for myself, I fear for my neighbors, and I also fear for posterity.

The lasting message here is clear.  Humans need to band together in order to combat the harmful stereotypes about monkeys—which, ironically are positive stereotypes—perpetrated by Western media.  Monkeys are not curious, they are conniving.  That’s right, I’m monkey shaming.  Because as I struggle to cope with reintegration into American society this summer, I’ll probably also have a PTSD flare-up as I walk through the kiddie aisles of my local Wal-Mart.  And how can I explain to my niece that I can’t hug her because she’s wearing the sign of the devil?


My neighbor will survive.  But again, the question remains:  will we, as a species, tear each other apart during times of monkey-induced trauma or will we view fearful retreat as a collective cross to bear?  Answering that question might be aided by the understanding that there is a fine line between running, momentarily, and running away, leaving a victim to be torn to shreds.  I may be a coward, but I’m not as heartless as a monkey.



My niece, wearing the truth on her face.

(Also, I realize that this is an ape of sorts, not a monkey.
If you even think about correcting me, we aren't friends.)


Wednesday, March 12, 2014

I've Got Friends in Cold Places

This may be the first thing that comes to your mind when you think about Kazakhstan:

"NIIIIICE!"

But, alas, pop culture fails us once again.

This photo is both kinder to the eyeballs and better representative of the country's beauty:

on the plane ride into Almaty


But where is Kazakhstan?  And why go to Kazakhstan?  You are probably asking yourself one or both of these questions.  Allow me to enlighten.

Where is Kazakhstan?


I flew through Almaty (the old capital) and into Astana (the current capital) and stayed in Karaganda.  Kazakhstan was part of the former Soviet Union, until it declared independence on December 16, 1991.  I was in the country for the 22nd anniversary of this date! 

Why go to Kazakhstan?

 Because I have a wonderful friend there!  I met Aigerim at Ohio University, where we shared a major (Integrated Language Arts) and were members of the same CARE cohort.  I remember that she once referred to us as “teaching soulmates,” which I think sums up our relationship quite nicely.

It was interesting to visit a foreign country with the primary purpose of visiting a friend.  I didn't have the mindset of a tourist, but it was still impossible not to observe and want to learn more about differences that are staring me in the face.  I was embarrassed about how little I knew about my friend’s cultural background —‘Murica.

So, rather than give a play-by-play of my week in Kazakhstan, here is a list of random information and casual reflections about the country that you might find interesting.

1) People are very quiet in public. 
When I go grocery shopping in the U.S., I know that the woman next to me at the checkout line is buying special canned food for her constipated cat and Velveeta cheese to use in a casserole for her daughter’s basketball potluck banquet.  I know this because she is reviewing each item in the grocery cart with her husband.  On the phone.  Loudly.  In Kazakhstan, you shop in silence—whispers, at most.  And you just don’t have constipated cats; it's better that way.

2) Most women wear black, heeled boots
and generally care more about their appearance than I do; it's better that way.  I got a haircut there, and the Russian-speaking stylist was visibly appalled by the shapeless mop that was growing upon my head.  She was also visibly distressed when her "just a trim" instructions (translated before Aigerim went to get her nails done) were eventually challenged by the fingers-as-scissors gestures I rapidly made at the back of my head.  The trim just looked too much like a mullet for my liking.

pothead with a mullet

I know there are many ridiculous-to-the-point-of-impressive mullets out there, but I chose to feature Johnny Appleseed, that saintly frontiersman cum conservationist, because…

3) The gene pool of wild apples in the foothills of Almaty is the deepest in the world.
In other words, apples originated here!  I learned this in The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan.  It was quite a coincidence to read about Kazakhstan and my near-hometown of Defiance, Ohio in the same chapter of a book that I just happened to be reading while in Kazakhstan.  But I have to admit, this apple business really cut to the ‘core’ (hehe) of my identity.  What’s more American than apple pie?  One thing is decidedly less American…

4) Horse meat.
I remember the first education class I took with Aigerim.  We had to make nametags and decorate them to represent our unique, special selves.

*insert warm, fuzzy feelings here*

Aigerim's included a picture of a horse… because it was her favorite food, not her favorite animal as everyone had expected. 

*insert groans of disgusted college students here* 

However, the process of consuming horse in Kazakhstan is far more humane and transparent than chomping on some chicken nuggets in the United States.  Because horse is not sold in the grocery stores, you have to go directly to the farm and choose your animal before it is butchered for you.  I wish it were easier to look your food in the eye in America.

5) It’s polite to be offered something many times before accepting.
Do you want some horse meat? 
No. 
Do you want some horse meat? 
No. 
Do you want some horse meat? 
…But really, no.

6) People with various disabilities and addictions are isolated and removed from the public eye, often placed in under-funded facilities.
While wheelchair ramps and other basic modifications are being championed in bigger cities, it’s a slow process.  Aigerim remembers being impressed by the education class dedicated solely to providing accommodations for all students, including those with physical disabilities.  There is obviously room for improvement in the U.S. as it pertains to equal access, but I’m proud that we’re on the right track.

7) Public education only lasts half the day
in order to make full use of school buildings and teaching staff.  Just like in India, many students go to extra tutorial classes for the other half of the day.  Teaching these classes is what Aigerim does for a living.

8) You must give up your seat for older passengers on the bus,
even if you are carrying an unwieldy backpack, or you will be forcibly prodded and feel like an even bigger jerk than when you don't bring food to a potluck.  

at a crafting class

delicious candies from KZ and surrounding countries

view from Aigerim's apartment--cold but beautiful!

Bayterek, an emblematic building that is featured on Kazakh currency